Davos – a winter wonderland in the mountains

Traveling in the canton of Graubünden in eastern Switzerland: by Rhaetian Railway through the snowy mountains, onto the ski slopes, by horse-drawn carriage through the valley and by torchlight through the winter night.

The journey to Davos begins in Landquart. Here you change from the train to the Rhaetian Railway – from here the journey through the snow-covered mountains begins . Outside, snow-covered slopes, forests, and small villages glide by. The river, winding its way through the valley, is visible again and again. Small train stations appear here and there, deep in the snow and surrounded by mountains.

The further you travel, the more wintry the landscape becomes. The route to Davos leads right through a mountain world that is particularly impressive in winter. Even the journey itself becomes an adventure. Davos lies at an altitude of 1.560 meters , making it the highest town in Europe . Today, the town is primarily known for winter sports . However, its story began with something else entirely: the hope that the high-altitude air would be beneficial to people.

A valley that has made history

Photo: © Anabel Castilla

In the 19th century, Davos was still a small, secluded mountain farming village . In 1853, the German physician Alexander Spengler arrived in the village as a regional doctor. He had previously fled to Switzerland as a political refugee. In Davos, he quickly noticed that the dreaded tuberculosis was rare at that altitude and suspected a connection to the unique climate. Spengler's treatment method was the reclining cure: plenty of rest and sleep, and above all, as many hours as possible spent in the fresh air. The patients spent their time on open-air terraces, wrapped in blankets and with a view of the mountains.

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The recuperative cure made Davos increasingly famous. The first winter guests arrived in Davos in 1865. Word of their improved health spread quickly, and more and more people traveled to the remote valley. The small mountain farming village developed into an internationally renowned health resort . In 1868, Spengler, together with Willem Jan Holsboer, founded the Spengler-Holsboer Spa, the first major health resort in Davos. Thomas Mann later also immortalized Davos in literature. His wife Katia's stays at a Davos sanatorium inspired his novel " The Magic Mountain ."

The Pioneers' Ski Trails

Photo: © Anabel Castilla

Today, Davos offers a choice of six ski areas . Around 300 kilometers of slopes are available – from easy runs to more challenging routes and freeride opportunities. Parsenn, Jakobshorn, and Rinerhorn are among the most popular. Parsenn is a classic with its long descents and sweeping mountain views. Jakobshorn is a favorite among freestylers and snowboarders. Rinerhorn is somewhat quieter and well-suited for families. Madrisa , Schatzalp , and Pischa are also part of the ski area.

The first day on the slopes begins with a view that immediately stays with you. Reaching the top, the snow-covered Davos valley lies below. The first skiers are carving their tracks in the snow, while opposite, the white slopes gleam in the sun. It's worth pausing for a moment to simply admire the view before setting off. The history of skiing is also close at hand here: in 1934, the world's first T-bar ski lift was put into operation at Bolgen on the Jakobshorn. With this, Davos also made its mark on winter sports history.

Cross-country skiing and curling 

Those not into downhill skiing will find plenty of other options in the valley. Cross-country skiing is an integral part of winter in Davos. The trails wind through snow-covered forests and meadows, offering a peaceful way to experience the landscape. The Rhaetian Railway frequently crosses the view. A train chugs through the snow, while cross-country skiers glide alongside. This combination is a common sight throughout the journey. And there's plenty to do on the ice as well: ice skating, curling, and Bavarian curling are also part of the winter offerings.

Image gallery

Davos is located in the canton of Graubünden in eastern Switzerland. (Photo: © Anabel Castilla)

The snow-covered mountains are particularly impressive in winter. (Photo: © Anabel Castilla)

Winter sports enthusiasts will find everything they could wish for here. (Photo: © Anabel Castilla)

Curling is among the many activities available. (Photo: © Anabel Castilla)

Riding in a horse-drawn carriage, warmly covered with sheepskins, through a winter wonderland. (Photo: © Anabel Castilla)

(Photo: © Anabel Castilla )

Evening hike with torches. (Photo: © Anabel Castilla)

(Photo: © Anabel Castilla )

With sheepskin through the valley and with torches through the night

Photo: © Anabel Castilla

In the afternoon, you can experience Davos from a completely different perspective: instead of skis, horses and a horse-drawn carriage await. Bundled up warmly and covered with sheepskins, the journey begins through the snow-covered valley. The sun shines, making the snow sparkle everywhere. The snow-covered meadows gleam brightly, and the mountains rise behind them into the blue sky.

For a moment, the landscape truly resembles a winter wonderland : The horses pull the carriage leisurely through the snow, snow-covered houses and narrow paths glide by on either side – and it's pleasantly warm under the sheepskin, while the cold winter air is palpable outside. After skiing, the carriage ride is a welcome contrast. Instead of experiencing the mountains from the slopes, the journey now takes you right through the valley.

Photo: © Anabel Castilla

In the evening, darkness falls quickly in the valley. The skis are put away, the last people return from the mountains, and the lights come on in the houses. With torches in hand, the hike begins: first through the snow-covered forest, later the path leads along the river back to Davos. The snow crunches underfoot as the torches illuminate the way. Along the way, there's an opportunity to warm up with a mug of punch during a break . During the day, you see the mountains from above; on this tour, you're right in the middle of them. Between the forest and the river, Davos can be experienced from yet another perspective.

Culinary delights from Graubünden 

Anyone visiting Davos should of course try the region's specialties – a cheese fondue is a must. It's accompanied by Bündnerfleisch ( air-dried beef ), served in thin slices. And no visit to Davos would be complete without trying the Bündner nut tart : this crispy tart with its sweet nut filling is one of Graubünden's most famous specialties and makes for a perfect ending to a meal.

A winter that will last

Photo: © Anabel Castilla

Even days later, individual images remain in the mind from the trip: the snow-covered valley, the mountains in the winter light, and the atmosphere in the evening when the torches shine through the darkness.

Davos is primarily known for its winter sports today, but it's not just the slopes that leave a lasting impression. The journey on the Rhaetian Railway, the horse-drawn carriage ride through the snow-covered valley, and the many small moments along the way are all part of this trip. You'll take home many memories and a winter that will stay with you.

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