Costa Brava: Fish, flies and strange birds

Away from the well-known resorts and the hustle and bustle, the Costa Brava reveals its tranquil and unspoiled side. Read on to discover seven places you shouldn't miss.

The Costa Brava in northeastern Spain stretches along the Catalan Mediterranean coast . It combines seaside resorts and historic coastal towns with rocky landscapes, small coves, and cultural attractions. We reveal seven places you shouldn't miss.

The rice fields of Pals

You read that right: Rice is indeed grown on the Costa Brava. However, the first attempt in the 15th century in the fields of Pals had devastating consequences for the local population. The stagnant water attracted countless mosquitoes, which in turn spread numerous diseases. After a ban in the 19th century, rice cultivation was resumed a century later using new methods. The best way to reach the rice paddies is by bicycle. Na Fent Bikes, for example, offers guided tours past expansive fields, to the old rice mill in Pals, and into the wetlands where the rice is grown. The small medieval town of Pals , with its cobbled streets, historic buildings, and charming shops, makes for another worthwhile stop.

The Gardens of Santa Clotilde in Lloret de Mar

Lloret de Mar is considered the party capital of the Costa Brava . During the summer months, hundreds of thousands of people, mostly young, throng the beaches, clubs, and the architecturally unappealing high-rise hotels. Outside of peak season and away from the hustle and bustle, however, the town presents a more tranquil side. Perched on a cliff between Cala Boadella and Fenals beach, a special place invites visitors to linger: the Jardins de Santa Clotilde.

Mermaids in the gardens of Santa Clotilde. Photo: © Susanne Freitag

The gardens of Santa Clotilde were designed in 1919 by landscape architect Nicolau Rubió i Tudurí for the Marquis of Roviralta in honor of his first wife, Clotilde Rocamora. With terraces, Mediterranean plants, and small ponds, the gardens follow the model of the Italian Renaissance . Stairs and paths connect the different levels. Sculptures of mythological figures such as Venus and mermaids can be found throughout . Towards the cliff, visitors can relax on the large lawn or enjoy the view of the sea in the distance. Candlelight concerts are regularly held in the small amphitheater , bathing the gardens in the romantic glow of thousands of electric candles.

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The Ibis project in Torre de Mornau

Emma is taking care of raising the northern bald ibises. Photo: © Susanne Freitag

At the former Torre de Mornau barracks in the Estanys de Pau wetlands, visitors can actively participate in nature conservation . The large site houses the Ibis Project, dedicated to the reintroduction of the northern bald ibis . This conservation initiative focuses on the return of this bird species, which, thanks to such projects, is no longer extinct in Europe but remains highly endangered. A team of researchers and volunteers cares for the birds and prepares them for release back into the wild.

Anyone wanting to enter the grounds must put on a funny black helmet with a beak . "The young birds mistake us for their mother and follow us," explains staff member Emma. Around 50 northern bald ibises share the area with horses and cows. Visitors can book volunteer days and, for example, collect litter in the surrounding area or sort worms for feeding. The project is financed through corporate partnerships and guided tours.

The vineyards in the Cap de Creus Natural Park

The Cap de Creus Natural Park covers 14.000 hectares and, since 1998, has been Catalonia's first combined land and sea natural park . Bizarre rock formations, hidden coves, and diverse flora and fauna await visitors. Some boulders bear a striking resemblance to animals. One of them even inspired the famous surrealist Salvador Dalí, who lived near the park, to create the melting form in his painting "El gran masturbador" (The Great Masturbator). The park is very popular with hikers , who can choose from several trails , including the GR 92 long-distance hiking trail along the coast from Llançà to Cadaqués and the GR 11 long-distance hiking trail across the Pyrenees, which ends at the Cap de Creus lighthouse. The historic Camí de Ronda coastal path, approximately 200 kilometers long, also passes through the park on a nearly 16-kilometer section as part of the GR 92, from the lighthouse to Port de la Selva.

Above the town of Roses, winemaker Anna Espelt of Espelt Viticultors has launched an organic viticulture project . The vines in the Mas Marès vineyards grow on mineral-rich granite soils and are exposed to the cold Tramuntana winds from the north and the sea breezes. They not only serve as fire protection for the populated coastal strip but also promote biodiversity through their intermingling with oak forests, pastures, and Mediterranean scrubland. Espelt offers two-hour wine tours with tastings , during which participants learn how closely viticulture and the landscape have been linked here since antiquity. Thanks to the stunning coastal views, however, the wine almost becomes secondary.

The Sepia Project in the Montgrí-Illes Medes Natural Park

Marine biologist Boris Weitzmann. Photo: © Susanne Freitag

Marine biologist Boris Weitzmann works closely with fishermen from the small coastal town of L'Estartit. With their cuttlefish project, they aim to restore the overfished cuttlefish populations in the waters off the Medes Islands . The fishermen collect cuttlefish eggs that get caught in their nets. These are then lowered eight meters into the sea in special cages, protecting them from predators. When the larvae are large enough, they simply slip through the mesh to freedom. In addition, the fishermen lay long ropes with attached branches in the water, which serve as artificial nesting sites for the cuttlefish.

Although the Medes Islands are a nature reserve, they are also a popular diving destination on the Costa Brava. These days, excursion and dive boats are only permitted to moor at designated buoys around the islands . Anchoring, like fishing, is generally prohibited. However, even from a boat, the archipelago, with its beautiful bays and enchanting caves such as the spectacular "La Foradada" (the rock arch), through which small boats can pass, is a sight to behold. Various tours around the Medes Islands in the Montrgí-Illes Medes Natural Park can be booked from Estartit, for example, aboard the Núria. This traditional "llaüt català" (Catalan-style boat) is already 80 years old and has small viewing ports in its hull through which one can observe the underwater world.

The Fishing Museum in Palamós

Anyone wanting to learn more about fishing on the Costa Brava should plan a visit to the Museu de la Pesca , the Museum of Fishing and Maritime Culture in Palamós. As the only museum on the entire Catalan coast, it focuses on the fishermen and explores their traditions, their lives, and the relationship between people and the sea. The museum also includes the Espai de Peix gastronomic center . In the large space above the fish auction hall, show cooking demonstrations and cooking classes are held regularly. The guiding principle is "zero kilometers": all dishes are prepared with fish and seafood from the sea off Palamós, as well as with other local ingredients.

Legends and special places in Girona

The Basilica of Sant Feliu in Girona. Photo: © Susanne Freitag

Girona is considered the gateway to the Costa Brava . The old town is particularly fascinating, with the Basilica of Sant Feliu and the sarcophagus of the city's patron saint, St. Narcissus. A legend associated with him revolves around the fly, Girona's unofficial emblem: during the French attack on the city in 1286, gigantic flies swarmed from the saint's tomb and wiped out the attackers. Also famous is the Ponte de les Peixateries Velles (Bridge of the Old Fish Markets), built in 1877 over the Onyar River. This bright red metal structure was designed by the company of Alexandre-Gustave Eiffel , the creator of the Eiffel Tower in Paris.

Anyone wanting to discover places in Girona that aren't in every guidebook should book a tour with a local guide . The Associació de Guies de Gerona is an association of officially certified city guides specializing in sharing the city's historical, cultural, and artistic heritage. Their tours also take you through the historic Jewish quarter of El Call , with its narrow streets, archways, and staircases. Here and there, you'll catch glimpses of medieval courtyards. El Call is one of the best-preserved quarters of Jewish life in Europe . At the Museum of the History of the Jews of Girona (Museu d'Història dels Jueus Girona ), visitors can learn more about the daily lives of families from the quarter and their traditions.

Image gallery

Exploring on two wheels: The rice paddies of Pals are best reached by bicycle. Na Fent Bikes, for example, offers guided tours. (Photo: © Susanne Freitag)

Historic buildings and charming shops in Pals. (Photo: © Susanne Freitag)

The northern bald ibis is a highly endangered bird species. (Photo: © Susanne Freitag)

The Medes Islands are also a nature reserve. (Photo: © Susanne Freitag)

The Cova del Drac (Dragon Cave) near the Medes Islands. (Photo: © Susanne Freitag)

Visitors can learn all about the fishermen and their demanding profession at the Museu de la Pesca in Palamós. (Photo: © Susanne Freitag)

Designed by Alexandre-Gustave Eiffel: The Ponte de les Peixateries Velles bridge over the Onyar River in Girona. (Photo: © Susanne Freitag)

Further informationGeneral information
Patronage of Tourism Costa Brava Girona: costabrava.org
Turespaña: spain.infoThe trip was supported by Turespaña.DHB now also digital!Simply click here and register for the digital German Crafts Journal (DHB)!